The dress is the screen: Dancing fashion, dancing media

by Marie-Aude Baronian ‘I am nothing without my dress’, says Loïe Fuller’s character in the feature film La Danseuse (Stéphanie Di Gusto, 2016), a biopic that focuses on the American dancer’s rise to fame with her Serpentine dances. The film, which can be seen as evidence of Fuller’s everlasting, inspiring, and influential effects, can also […]

Womanliness as animal masquerade

by Isabelle Freda For thinking concerning the animal, if there is a such a thing, derives from poetry. – Jacques Derrida[1] We begin with two film stars of the first order: Catherine Deneuve and Isabella Rossellini, two actors as famous for their beauty as for their talent, but also, crucially, their innovative creativity in negotiating […]

Only a groomed woman deserves her name: Fashion, emancipation, and stardom in the Czechoslovak film musical The Lady of the Lines

by Šárka Gmiterková and Miroslava Papežová It has been 50 years since the release of the Czechoslovak film musical Dáma na kolejích (The Lady of the Lines, Ladislav Rychman, 1966). In 2016 the city of Prague together with the local public transport company organised a commemorative event in the heart of the capital. Jiřina Bohdalová, […]

Redressing perspectives: Mediation, embodiment, and materiality in digital fashion and smart textiles

by Frances Joseph Introduction While the shift from mechanical to digital textile technologies has led to new systems of manufacturing and distribution such as ‘on demand’ production, new hybrid forms of textile and digital technologies have given rise to distinctive new mediums including smart textiles and digital fashion. These areas overlap with the field of […]

Dressing the surface

by Giuliana Bruno What is the place of materiality in our contemporary virtual world? To engage materiality, I suggest that we think about surfaces rather than images, and explore the fabrics of the visual and the surface tension of media. In order to pursue a new materialism, I propose performing critical acts of investigation on […]

Editorial Necsus

From the early days of film studies, costumes have been analysed as an important element of the mise-en-scène and stardom, as they help shape identities and define subjectivities, crafting the stars. There is no question that costumes help create meaning, no less today than in the heyday of classical cinema. More recently, haute couture has […]

NECSUS Autumn 2017_#Dress

In a widely circulating quote, Marlene Dietrich declares: ‘I dress for the image. Not for myself, not for the public, not for fashion, not for men.’ Obviously, Dietrich, notably under Von Sternberg’s guidance, is a quintessential example of the convergence in a star image of studio marketing strategies, elaborate art direction, gender issues, and bonds […]

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